@max6200 avatar
UTC

Banned
2006 GTS 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10590
Location: KS USA
 
Banned
@max6200 avatar
2006 GTS 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10590
Location: KS USA
UTC quote
Oscillator wrote:
We also have a good recording of that session up on the interwebs:

http://naturesruntime.com/mvworkshop/

It is streaming from the top for now. I will add play/pause index points as soon a some time opens up, or when riding season ends ; ))

\osc
I have tried this link several times but it is not working on my stupid computer. These are great pictures. I appreciate them a lot.

I am fixing to assemble all the tools needed for the variator/clutch service and belt change. I know the two special tools that I need to get from the Wiki but nowhere does it talk about the size of the bits. Can someone help me with that. I have the break bar, torque wrench, etc. I just need to know what size bits to buy for all the scres, nuts, and bolts. Thanks in advance.
⚠️ Last edited by Max6200 on UTC; edited 1 time
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 920
Location: Linnville, TX
 
Addicted
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Posts: 920
Location: Linnville, TX
UTC quote
Re: What size bits will I need?
Max6200 wrote:
I have tried this link several times but it is not working on my stupid computer. These are great pictures. I appreciate them a lot.
That link was posted just over four years ago.

If you are going to be maintaining your vehicle, go out and buy a socket set, some wrenches, and a bunch of screw drivers. If you only buy the sockets you need for every project, eventually you will have a whole set, but it will cost you a lot more than if you just bought everything together.

If you don't want to spend money on new stuff, you can shop around for used tools. I have a whole bunch of Snap-on tools from the '50s that I got at estate sales. I have bought small boxes full of tools for $10 and vise grips for $1, but it is a bit harder to find metric tools that way.

I guess that I have a tool habit and it is hard to wrap my head around buying the absolute minimum number of tools.
@max6200 avatar
UTC

Banned
2006 GTS 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10590
Location: KS USA
 
Banned
@max6200 avatar
2006 GTS 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10590
Location: KS USA
UTC quote
Re: What size bits will I need?
HonestlyLincoln wrote:
Max6200 wrote:
I have tried this link several times but it is not working on my stupid computer. These are great pictures. I appreciate them a lot.
That link was posted just over four years ago.

If you are going to be maintaining your vehicle, go out and buy a socket set, some wrenches, and a bunch of screw drivers. If you only buy the sockets you need for every project, eventually you will have a whole set, but it will cost you a lot more than if you just bought everything together.

If you don't want to spend money on new stuff, you can shop around for used tools. I have a whole bunch of Snap-on tools from the '50s that I got at estate sales. I have bought small boxes full of tools for $10 and vise grips for $1, but it is a bit harder to find metric tools that way.

I guess that I have a tool habit and it is hard to wrap my head around buying the absolute minimum number of tools.
I think my post may have been confusing to you. Let's try it another way. What size are the screws/nuts in the transmission cover? What size are the ones holding the filter box to the bike? What size is the clutch nut? And what size in the variator nut? Those are the bits I need. I understand your tool habit. I am the same way with cleaning products and air fresheners. But not tools. I will just buy the specific pieces. Thanks
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⬆️    About 1 year elapsed    ⬇️
@quig avatar
UTC

Hooked
black GTS250 and Suzuki V-Strom
Joined: UTC
Posts: 373
Location: San Jose, CA
 
Hooked
@quig avatar
black GTS250 and Suzuki V-Strom
Joined: UTC
Posts: 373
Location: San Jose, CA
UTC quote
GTS Belt and Roller Change
I attended a GTS maintenance workshop (Thanks, Rolf and Rich!) last weekend. Immediately afterward, feeling confident, I ordered the parts and tools from Scooterwest to perform the variator belt change. They arrived two days ago, and I plan to do the work this weekend. This thread will also be useful for reference. Thanks, MVers, for helping me learn to do my own maintenance!
@dynagrego avatar
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Zip50 hyperscooter 188cc
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Location: Athens,Greece
 
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@dynagrego avatar
Zip50 hyperscooter 188cc
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Posts: 158
Location: Athens,Greece
UTC quote
Use a 6mm combination wrench to block the variator as i do.It costs nothing.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@megatitaniumman avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa ET4 150, Ebony.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 368
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
 
Hooked
@megatitaniumman avatar
Vespa ET4 150, Ebony.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 368
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
UTC quote
dynagrego wrote:
Use a 6mm combination wrench to block the variator as i do.It costs nothing.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
^^Kool thanks for that.^^

This I wonder about,
"Do not use a screwdriver to hold the clutch instead of the special tool"
I have to wonder why two screwdrivers one on each side is not the same thing, forgive me if it is obvious to you what damage it will cause, I have automotive experience but am new to Vespa.
I have a new belt and Sliders I am installing next week, please enlighten me.
Thank you.
Mega.
@jimc avatar
UTC

Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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Posts: 43357
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
 
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@jimc avatar
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 43357
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
UTC quote
You'd need three hands, as the screwdrivers would have to be held at 90 degrees to the clutch bell in order to prevent any twisting moment onto the driven shaft (or clutch innards).

I use a U-bolt of the right spacing, with the arms bent at 90 degrees, for the US Vespas. Less than two dollars, and available almost everywhere...
@megatitaniumman avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa ET4 150, Ebony.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 368
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
 
Hooked
@megatitaniumman avatar
Vespa ET4 150, Ebony.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 368
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
UTC quote
I will have some help so an extra hand will be avail, thanks for the idea of the U bolt.
I am thinking the tangs will have to be bent at 90 drgrees to the loop to get a socket in there on the clutch nut, unless the U bolt was 4" long.
The threads on the U bolt wont damage anything?
I am replacing the front fender too so it will be at least half the day doing all this.
Wish I could afford to do some clutch work at the same time, new springs at least, oh well, one thing at a time for now.
Thanks for the tip.
Mega.
@quig avatar
UTC

Hooked
black GTS250 and Suzuki V-Strom
Joined: UTC
Posts: 373
Location: San Jose, CA
 
Hooked
@quig avatar
black GTS250 and Suzuki V-Strom
Joined: UTC
Posts: 373
Location: San Jose, CA
UTC quote
Belt and Roller Change on GTS
I changed my GTS belt and rollers last weekend; no issues. I bought the parts and tools (Buzzeti variator tool and clutch tool) from Scooterwest. Much cheaper than the official Vespa tools, and they worked fine. That was one of the tips from the workshop I attended, by the way.
@jimc avatar
UTC

Moderaptor
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
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Posts: 43357
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
 
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@jimc avatar
The Hornet (GT200, aka Love Bug) and 'Dimples' - a GTS 300
Joined: UTC
Posts: 43357
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
UTC quote
MegaTitaniumMan wrote:
I will have some help so an extra hand will be avail, thanks for the idea of the U bolt.
I am thinking the tangs will have to be bent at 90 drgrees to the loop to get a socket in there on the clutch nut, unless the U bolt was 4" long.
The threads on the U bolt wont damage anything?
I am replacing the front fender too so it will be at least half the day doing all this.
Wish I could afford to do some clutch work at the same time, new springs at least, oh well, one thing at a time for now.
Thanks for the tip.
Mega.
The threads won't do any harm. A picture:
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@megatitaniumman avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa ET4 150, Ebony.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 368
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
 
Hooked
@megatitaniumman avatar
Vespa ET4 150, Ebony.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 368
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
UTC quote
jimc wrote:
MegaTitaniumMan wrote:
I will have some help so an extra hand will be avail, thanks for the idea of the U bolt.
I am thinking the tangs will have to be bent at 90 drgrees to the loop to get a socket in there on the clutch nut, unless the U bolt was 4" long.
The threads on the U bolt wont damage anything?
I am replacing the front fender too so it will be at least half the day doing all this.
Wish I could afford to do some clutch work at the same time, new springs at least, oh well, one thing at a time for now.
Thanks for the tip.
Mega.
The threads won't do any harm. A picture:
Perfect!
Thank you.
Mega.
⬆️    About 10 years elapsed    ⬇️
UTC

Lurker
sportcity 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1
Location: spain
 
Lurker
sportcity 250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1
Location: spain
UTC quote
Michael Moore wrote:
Sorry it's taken me a while to post these. I'll do my best on the captions, but if you want to chime in with changes, I'll update them.


Take off the left side body panel. You may also need to remove any crashguards or racks it they get in the way of removing other parts.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Rear hub cover removed.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


The next step is to take off the clutch nut.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Insert the special clutch holding tool over the nut, inserting the pins on the tool into the slots of the cover. You may have to jiggle things a bit to get it all to line up. Do not use a screwdriver to hold the clutch instead of the special tool!!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


View showing the clutch nut removed.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Shove the air filter out of the way once the bolts have been removed.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Now you can start to remove the bolts that hold on the cover

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


As you remove the bolts, pay careful attention to any clips holding brake lines and other lines.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Some bolts may be awkward to get to, especially with crash bars

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


View with the cover removed

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text



Check the inside of the clutch bell for grooves, irregularities.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text



Using a special tool to hold the variator cover in place while the nut is removed

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text



Pay attention to the orientation of the washers. It's important when you re-assemble to get it right.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Taking off the outer plate of the variator.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Half the variator removed

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Feeling for grooves or irregularities on one side of the variator.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


View with the variator, belt and clutch off.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Feeling the roller grooves for any notching or roughness.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Using some green scotchbrite pad to remove any accumulated gunk in the roller grooves.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Feeling the other side of the variator for for roughness or grooves. It should be smooth.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


View of the clutch / variator area with everything off

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


Cleaning the roller grooves with brake cleaner. Pretty much everything should be well cleaned before being put back.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text



Reassembly is in reverse order, using new belts and rollers. Rollers can develop flat spots, belts will show signs of cracking, delamination and heat damage.
any chance of a repost of this please no pic's now and i used this last time and it was excellent thanks
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